Free of silly bureaucratic constraints like building safety codes, Pakistanis can design bathrooms however they please, including plugging the water heater in next to the shower head. The drain worked poorly, so I stood in a puddle of water while showering, laughing at the absurd image of myself being electrocuted in the shower. Luckily, this scenario never came to pass.
There are three forts around Karimabad, two of which have been restored. They exhibit the influence of Tibetan architecture, for which a few explanations have been provided. One is that the Mir of Hunza married a princess from Baltistan, who brought skilled carpenters and masons with her as part of her dowry. During the same period, the Tibetan empire stretched into nearby regions, so the architectural exchange could have happened in a less formal manner as well. I first visited Baltit Fort, high on a hill overlooking Karimabad, with mountains as its backdrop. The oldest parts of the fort are 700 years old, though significant additions have been made over the centuries.
The royal kitchens were a simple affair, and also served as the dining room. Most of the pots at the left of the photo are actually made from single pieces of stone, as metal was unknown in this part of the world when the fort was constructed. The chest in the corner has two rat-proof compartments for storing grain and flour.
The king’s throne is on the third floor of the fort, and the view looking out over his kingdom is quite impressive.
After visiting the fort, I went on an impromptu hike in the surrounding hills. The locals have channeled glacial streams through an extensive network of irrigation channels that water their pastures and provide water to their homes.
Lunch included some delicious apricot juice.
The next day I visited Altit Fort, positioned on a cliff overlooking the Hunza River. It shares many architectural similarities with Baltit Fort. It is much older, with the watchtower dating back around 1100 years. A branch of the Silk Road came down this valley, and the tower provides commanding views of anyone passing along the river below.
Inside the fort is the smallest mosque I’ve ever been inside, around two metres (6.5 ft.) square. I snapped a photo of the simple mihrab, indicating the direction of Mecca.
These two widely spaced rocks were used as a test for the king’s bodyguard – if you could jump from right to left and then back, you were accepted. What the photo doesn’t show is the fatal drop to the river below for those with unsure footing.
Finally, I was treated to spectacular views of the valley as the sun set.
