Cairo’s location at the beginning of the Nile Delta has always been of strategic importance, but the current city was not founded until the second half of the tenth century, when the Fatimid Caliphate conquered Egypt. The walled town they constructed was initially quite small, but has grown to be the 13th largest city in the world. I spent the day exploring the mosques and streets of the old city.
My first stop was actually quite modern – Al-Azhar park overlooks the old city (and all of Cairo for that matter). The panoramic views are spectacular, and no photo can truly do them justice.
Using directions provide by Google Maps that sent me walking along the side of a highway and through a cemetery (thanks a lot, Google), I came to the Mosque-Madrassa of Sultan Hassan. It sits just below the citadel that Saladin, most famous for defeating the crusader armies, built to protect the city. Construction began in the latter half of the 14th century, and the mosque is attached to a madrasa – a school. The most was truly spectacular, and the feeling of being inside it was more impressive than any cathedral I have visited in Europe.
The experience of being inside a mosque is much different from a church. The first difference is that you’re barefoot, which combined with the (typically) carpeted floors makes the experience much more relaxing. Cathedrals, with their cold stone floors, feel as sterile as a hospital in comparison. A mosque also has a much more relaxed feel – it’s perfectly acceptable to take an afternoon nap in the corner – and the lack of pews to funnel you towards the front allows you to freely wander and explore. I recommend that everyone visit one give the opportunity, but make sure to ask questions in advance to ensure you conform to proper etiquette.
Next door is the Al-Rifa’i mosque, which was comparatively recently completed – 1911. Built with the assistance of more modern tools, it is equally impressive.
The Shah of Iran, who was toppled in 1979 and died in Cairo, is buried there. So is King Farouk, the last king of Egypt, who died in Rome. I only took photos of the Shah’s tomb. Farouk’s is much less elaborate.
The oldest mosque I visited was Al-Azhar, which was begun shortly after the city was founded. Its university is the second-oldest such institution in the world. The Fatimid architecture was impressive.
One of my last stops was Bab Zuweila, the southern gate of medieval Cairo and the last gate still standing. Its towers rise over 40 metres above the streets. You’re permitted to climb them; when you reach the top, the railing – less that waist-height – feels totally inadequate to protect you from the drop to the street. The views, however, are the best in that part of the city. It’s easy to see why Cairo has been named “The City of a Thousand Minarets.”
I’ve said goodbye to Cairo for now and gone up the river to Luxor. I think I’ll miss the city, but not the smog.
