The visa situation in East Africa is unbelievably complicated and convoluted, but with only a couple exceptions, countries are doing their best to welcome tourists with open wallets.
Since most tourists to African countries arrive by air, visa information on embassy websites usually is geared towards travellers arriving at a country’s main international airport. This information doesn’t always prove true at land borders or ports.
For me personally, the visa situation has been further complicated because I’m living in London, not the US, my country of citizenship.
My best research indicates that I need three visas in advance: Sudan, Ethiopia, and Kenya. I applied for all of these visas in person at their embassies in London, which I believe was helpful. When the officials requested extra documents as they did at the Ethiopian and Sudanese embassies, I was on hand to provide copies immediately.
Ethiopia
Most American tourists to Ethiopia get their visa upon arrival at the airport in Addis Ababa (incidentally, one of the cheapest airports in Africa to fly into). However, this isn’t an option at land borders, specifically the one I intend to cross at Moyale. I also need a multiple-entry visa on account of my itinerary.
I applied for my visa at the Ethiopian Embassy in London, which is next door to the Iranian Embassy, site of the famous hostage crisis that ended 35 years ago this week. The visa section for Ethiopia is located in the basement, and the whole operation has a back-door feel despite being located in one of the most fashionable areas of London.
By “special arrangement,” the embassy can grant a multiple entry visa to US citizens that is valid for two years. Initially, the staff attempted to issue me a single entry visa, and they were clearly not used to issuing visas to Americans on a regular basis. I had to explain to them that I needed a multiple entry visa. After paying £51, I was told to come back within an hour. After a beautiful walk through Hyde Park on a spectacularly sunny day, I had my first visa.
Kenya
Since Kenya is part of the Commonwealth, it has been a popular destination for British tourists for several decades. Princess Elizabeth was on holiday in Kenya when her father died, and hastily returned to London to be crowned Queen Elizabeth II. The Kenyan High Commission (the term for embassies between Commonwealth countries) is much more used to granting visas, especially for non-Citizens resident in the UK. I had to provide a copy of my
Tier 4 visa, which proves that I am legally resident in the UK, fill out the application form, and pay £30. Two working days later, I picked up my visa.
Sudan
Sudan is by far the hardest visa to obtain, especially for Americans. Sixteen years of US sanctions do not lead to Americans being welcomed by the government, but all travellers report that the Sudanese people themselves are incredibly friendly.
From my initial research, it appeared there were three places I could apply for a visa: the embassy in London, the embassy in Cairo, or the consulate in Aswan, the last town in Egypt before the border. I read from other travellers that Americans have been flatly refused visas in Cairo, and in Aswan they have been told to come back in 4 weeks or forced to pay hefty bribes to speed up the process. I decided to try the London embassy. After obtaining a letter from a hotel inviting me to the country, I went to the embassy expecting to pay the £55 fee described on their website. I was told by the staff that because I was an American, I would instead be charged £95. This was roughly equal to the amount others were forced to pay in bribes in Aswan, so I accepted and had my visa the next day.
I’m in the final stages of packing now. Three days until I’m in Egypt.
