Ben Abeba

While in Lalibela, I ate twice at a restaurant called Ben Abeba that I think deserves its own post. It is the coolest place to eat in Ethiopia, and the food is excellent as well.

The restaurant is located at the end of a ridge, giving it panoramic views of the valley below on all sides. Photos can’t do justice to a view this amazing. 

The restaurant itself is perhaps described best by Lonely Planet, who calls it “Dali-sequel.” It is a labyrinth of different levels, with indoor and outdoor seating, several terraces, and fire pits. There are no seats without a dramatic view, but the highest level is the best. The external architecture is unlike anything else I’ve seen in Ethiopia. 

One of the two owners is Susan, a teacher from Scotland who quit her job six years ago to become a teacher at a friend’s school in Ethiopia. I ate at Ben Abeba twice, and on the second night we had a special guest. Ross, a Scotsman who grew up in Shanghai, is on a bagpiping tour of the world, wearing his kilt – his mother is a Baird – the whole way. The last place I expected to hear pipes ringing out was the highlands of Ethiopia. It was a special experience for Susan, who has only heard pipes in Ethiopia one other time. After dinner, we were taught Scottish dances by the fire. It was certainly my best dinner in Africa so far.

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